I really like Albion. I want to love it. I can forgive its location off Redchurch Street, the so-so service etc. The food was good yesterday, but nothing special. My main issue however is that at the weekend brunch is not relaxing, which is what it should be, and that’s because the place has become the product of its own success.
It feels, with a queue into the adjacent food shop, like there is a bit of pressure to eat up and get out, and if you’re in the line and see a bunch of people settling into the Sunday Times (officially more words than A La Recherche du Temps Perdu) you do rather hope they are just going to read Clarkson, dump the rest of it and hop off.
So it is probably good news that Sir Terence has announced that he is rolling out Albion as a chain with the second one within spitting distance of TATE Modern. I’d imagine this one to be even busier than the original, but hopefully he can open one soon in a less popular postcode where I can settle in on a Sunday morning with Proust (now officially shorter than the Sunday Times), and have a leisurely brekkie. In the meantime the Albion shop stocks the most amazing croissants – so if you’re good with a bit of forward planning pick a few up on a Saturday and enjoy in bed at home on Sunday with your missus / mister (or just Marcel).